
Puerto Varas sits on the south-western shore of Lake Llanquihue, in southern Chile's Lake District, with the snow-capped cone of Osorno Volcano rising across the water. German settlers founded the town in the 1850s, and their legacy shows in the steep-roofed wooden houses, the hilltop church and the cakes in every café. Rose bushes line the streets, which earned the town the nickname City of Roses, and the lakefront is the place to watch the sun set behind the volcano. It is also a hub for outdoor activities, from rafting and kayaking to volcano hikes.
Most visitors stay in Puerto Varas itself, which has the widest choice of guesthouses, hotels and restaurants and lies close to Puerto Montt and its airport. Frutillar, to the north, is quieter and more cultural, while Ensenada puts you nearer the national park, the waterfalls and the volcano trails. Whichever you choose, allow for the weather: rain is common in every season, and the clear days that follow reveal views that are well worth waiting for.
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This wooden church, built in 1918 on one of the town's highest points, is the best-known landmark in Puerto Varas and was raised by the German settlers. It is a short walk uphill from the centre and looks out over the lake and the volcano, especially atmospheric at dusk.

The largest lake wholly inside Chile stretches away from the town's waterfront, where a promenade and a small beach look across to the volcanoes. Kayaking, boat trips and swimming are possible in summer, and sunset is the favourite time for a stroll.
A near-perfect snow-capped cone that dominates the skyline to the east. A road climbs to the base of a chairlift that runs for views in summer and for skiing in winter, and the route is usually reached through Ensenada.

A second snow-capped volcano seen from the lakefront, which erupted dramatically in 2015. It is monitored as an active volcano, so most visitors admire it from the lakeshore, from viewpoints along the road to Ensenada or on a boat trip.

A modern concert hall on the shore at Frutillar, about 25 kilometres north, which stages concerts throughout the year. An annual music festival at the turn of January and February draws audiences from across the country.
An open-air museum in Frutillar that shows how the nineteenth-century German settlers lived, with a restored house, a water mill and landscaped gardens on the hill above the bay. It makes an easy half-day when paired with a lakeside walk.
A harbourside market in Puerto Montt, about 20 kilometres south, where stalls sell shellfish, smoked fish, crafts and woollen goods. Small restaurants alongside serve seafood that is as fresh as it gets.
The streets around the lakefront and main square have the widest choice of guesthouses, cafés and tour operators, with the promenade within walking distance. It suits first-time visitors and anyone relying on buses and tours.
A peaceful lakeside town of wooden houses about 25 kilometres to the north, known for its music and German heritage. It suits couples, families and culture lovers who like quiet evenings.
A small village at the eastern end of the lake, beneath Osorno and Calbuco, with lodges and cabins. It suits hikers and anglers who want to be close to the national park and the waterfalls, although restaurants are few.
The regional city about 20 kilometres south, with the airport, the bus terminal and the Angelmó market. It suits early flights and one-night stopovers, but it lacks the charm of the lakeside towns.
Summer, from December to February, is the warmest and driest season, with long days for lake activities and hikes, and it is also the busiest. Roses bloom in the streets from spring through summer. Spring and autumn are quieter, and autumn brings colour to the forests. Winter is cold and wet, but clear days show a snow-dusted Osorno at its most striking, and the ski slope on the volcano operates. Rain can fall in any season, so pack waterproofs whenever you come.
The centre of Puerto Varas is walkable, with the promenade, the restaurants and the church within easy reach. Frequent minibuses run to Puerto Montt, and regular buses serve Frutillar and Ensenada, with onward services towards the national park. Hiring a car makes the Lake District much easier to explore, especially the waterfalls and volcano viewpoints, and tour operators run day trips to the main sights. The airport at Puerto Montt is roughly 30 kilometres away and is linked by taxis and shuttles.
German settlers left a strong baking tradition, so kuchen, fruit and cream cakes baked in the German style, appear in almost every café, and a special Kuchen Day is held each February. Salmon from the region's fjords and lakes is on many menus, alongside beef, lamb and shellfish. Try curanto, a stew of shellfish, meat and potatoes traditionally cooked in a pit on the island of Chiloé and served in simpler form in local restaurants. Craft beer, chocolate and berry jams are also part of the local table.
Puerto Varas town centre is the best choice, because it has the most restaurants, tour operators and transport links. Frutillar is the pick for quiet and culture, and Ensenada for hikers.
Yes, if you want quiet and do not mind cold, wet weather. Clear days give superb views of snow-covered volcanoes and the ski slope on Osorno is open, but daylight is short and some tours run less often.
The airport at Puerto Montt is roughly 30 kilometres away by road. A taxi or shuttle usually takes 30 to 40 minutes.
Osorno has glaciers on its upper slopes, so it should only be climbed with a licensed guide and proper equipment. Calbuco is an active volcano with access restrictions, so ask a local operator what is allowed.
A well-known crossing links the Lake District to San Carlos de Bariloche by a combination of buses and boats through the Andes. It is normally booked through a tour company and often includes an overnight stop.