
Watamu is a laid-back coastal village on Kenya's north coast, built around a string of white-sand bays and a protected coral reef. The sea here is part of a marine national park and a UNESCO biosphere reserve, and the shallow lagoons, coral gardens and glass-bottom boat trips make it one of the best snorkelling areas in East Africa. Behind the beaches lie mangrove creeks, baobab trees and one of the largest surviving fragments of coastal forest in the region, while a ruined medieval Swahili town sits only a few minutes inland.
Watamu is small, so a few minutes decide your stay. The village centre has restaurants, shops and dive centres, the bays offer hotels and villas within a short walk of the sand, and quieter stretches towards the creek suit those who want to be left alone. Malindi, a livelier town about 15 kilometres to the north, has the nearest airport and more going on in the evenings, while Kilifi, to the south, is a relaxed creekside town that is popular with sailors.
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Established in 1968, the park protects coral gardens a short boat ride offshore, home to hundreds of species of fish. Glass-bottom boats and snorkel trips run from the beach, and local operators plan outings around the tide, so ask them when to go. The area also has an active turtle conservation programme.

The remains of a walled Swahili town, with mosques, a palace, houses and pillar tombs of coral stone, stand in the forest a few kilometres inland. The site is a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the best-studied medieval settlements on the East African coast. Shade, monkeys and quiet paths make it a pleasant morning outing.
The largest remaining stretch of coastal forest in East Africa, home to rare birds and small mammals found almost nowhere else. Guided walks on marked trails are the best way to see it, and a guide also keeps you safe, as elephants live in the forest.
A tidal inlet fringed with mangroves just south of the village, where wading birds feed on the mud at low tide. Local community groups run boardwalk walks and canoe trips, and the creek is especially beautiful at sunset.
The main bay in the village has soft white sand and shallow, warm water. The tide goes out a long way at low water, leaving wide sand flats and rock pools, so check tide times before you plan a swim, and wear reef shoes to avoid sea urchins.
The centre has restaurants, small shops, dive centres and a few bars, all within a short ride of the beaches. It suits independent travellers who like to wander and eat out in the evening.
Hotels and villas line the main bay and the stretches around it, with direct beach access and calm water for swimming. It suits families and couples who want to step from their room onto the sand.
A larger town about 15 kilometres to the north with the nearest airport, markets, shops and a livelier evening scene. It suits travellers who want more variety and town facilities, although the best reef is at Watamu.
A quiet creekside town roughly 35 kilometres south of Watamu, with a relaxed pace and a sailing culture. It suits slow travellers who want a calm base and are happy to drive to the beaches.
The best conditions are December to March, when it is hot, dry and sunny, and July to October, which is cooler, breezier and still mostly dry. The long rains fall from April to June, bringing humid heat and heavy showers, and some small hotels and restaurants close. Shorter, lighter rains can arrive in November. The sea is warm all year, although visibility on the reef is best in calm, dry spells. Because the tide changes the look of the beaches dramatically, plan swimming and snorkelling around the tide times.
Watamu is small enough to walk, and many hotels are connected by the beach at low tide. Three-wheeled tuk-tuks and motorbike taxis called boda-bodas are everywhere, and minibuses called matatus run along the main coast road to Malindi and Mombasa. Malindi has the closest airport, while Mombasa is about two hours away by road. Avoid walking on isolated beaches or unlit roads after dark, and ask your accommodation to arrange taxis for the evening.
Swahili coastal cooking is rich with coconut, tamarind and spices. Try samaki wa kupaka, fish grilled and finished in a coconut-and-tamarind sauce, as well as pilau, fragrant spiced rice, and mahamri, soft cardamom-scented fried bread served with beans or tea. Prawns, crab and lobster are good choices, and the day's catch is often grilled whole. A sizeable Italian community has left behind pizzerias, gelaterias and homemade pasta. Fresh coconut water, passion fruit and mango juice are sold everywhere, and kachumbari, a tomato-and-onion salad, comes with most grills.
The bays around Watamu village are best for beach access and snorkelling. Malindi suits travellers who want more shops and nightlife, and Kilifi suits a quiet creekside stay.
The tide changes a great deal, and at low water the sea retreats far from many beaches. Swimming is best around high tide, so ask your hotel for the day's tide times.
Yes, the marine park has coral gardens, lagoons and a wide variety of fish, and local operators offer snorkelling trips and dives. Do not touch coral or turtles, and wear a rash vest against the strong sun.
Malindi has the nearest airport, and Mombasa is about two hours away by road. Most hotels can arrange a transfer, and shared minibuses run along the coast road.
Go only with an official guide on marked trails, because elephants and other wildlife live there. Guides also know where to find the rare birds and small mammals.