
Trancoso is a former fishing village on Brazil's Discovery Coast in southern Bahia, in the region where Portuguese explorers first landed in 1500. At its heart is the Quadrado, a broad grassy square bordered by brightly painted low houses and a small white church overlooking the Atlantic, which is protected as heritage. Cliffs drop to long beaches of pale sand, many of them sheltered by reefs that form natural swimming pools at low tide. Over the past two decades Trancoso has grown into a stylish but relaxed beach destination, with boutique pousadas, small restaurants and a barefoot atmosphere.
Most visitors stay either in or near the Quadrado, where you can walk to dinner, or by the beaches, which are a short walk or ride from the square. Further south, Praia do Espelho and Caraíva offer quieter, more rustic stays, with Caraíva a village of sandy lanes beside a river. Trancoso is small and its roads can be rough, so choose your base according to how much you want to walk and whether you plan to hire a car.
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The grassy main square is lined with low, pastel-painted houses, restaurants and bars, with a white church at the eastern end looking out over the ocean. It is the social heart of Trancoso, at its liveliest after dark when tables fill the edges and musicians play, and it is a lovely place to stroll at sunset.
The small white church on the edge of the Quadrado dates from the 16th century and has long been the village's landmark. Its position on the cliff gives wide views of the sea, and it is especially photogenic in the late afternoon light.

The beach closest to the village, a wide sweep of pale sand backed by cliffs and palms and dotted with simple beach shacks serving seafood and cold drinks. It is a short walk or ride from the Quadrado and is busiest at weekends and holidays.
A stretch of sand backed by coconut palms, which give the beach its name, a little further along the coast. It has beach bars and restaurants where you can spend a whole afternoon, and it is a favourite for sunset drinks.

Known as Mirror Beach, this bay about 15 kilometres south is famous for its powder-white sand and for the shallow natural pools that form behind the reef at low tide. The road to reach it is unpaved and can be rough after rain, so allow extra time.
The historic centre has the most restaurants, boutiques and nightlife, all a short stroll apart. It suits couples and travellers who want to walk to dinner, though the square can be lively late into the evening.
Pousadas and villas sit along the cliffs and near the beaches, usually a short taxi ride from the square. It suits families and travellers who want quiet mornings and easy access to the sand.
A remote bay with a few small pousadas and beach restaurants, about 15 kilometres to the south along a rough road. It suits people who want seclusion and quiet and do not mind driving for shops and nightlife.
A laid-back village of sandy lanes on the banks of a river, further south, usually reached by a rough road and a short river crossing. It suits travellers who want a simple, rustic stay and a slow pace.
Trancoso is warm all year. December to March is the hottest and busiest period, with Christmas, New Year and Carnival the most crowded weeks, when rooms book out early. September to November is a pleasant, lower-key time for beach days. April to July brings more rain, though showers are often short and prices ease. The sea stays warm enough to swim year-round, but check the weather before driving the unpaved roads to Espelho and Caraíva, because they can become muddy after heavy rain.
The Quadrado and the nearby streets are easy to walk, and the closest beaches are a short stroll or ride away. Taxis and motorbike taxis are the usual way to reach the beaches, and many guests hire a car for a day to explore Espelho and Caraíva. Roads outside the centre are often unpaved and can be rough, especially after rain. Porto Seguro Airport, roughly an hour away by road, is the main arrival point, and your pousada can usually arrange the transfer.
Bahian cooking is rich and colourful. The classic dish is moqueca baiana, fish or shrimp stewed in coconut milk with tomatoes, peppers and dendê, a red palm oil, served with rice and farofa, toasted manioc flour. Look also for acarajé, fried bean fritters stuffed with shrimp, and for fresh grilled fish and lobster at the beach shacks. Tapioca pancakes are a popular breakfast, and tropical juices such as cashew and passion fruit are everywhere. Evenings in the Quadrado call for a caipirinha, the national cocktail made with cachaça and lime.
The Quadrado is best for atmosphere, restaurants and walking to dinner, while the beachfront suits quieter stays. Praia do Espelho and Caraíva suit travellers who want rustic seclusion.
Not if you stay in or near the Quadrado, where you can walk and take taxis to the beaches. A car is useful for Praia do Espelho and Caraíva, but the roads can be rough.
Many are sheltered by reefs and form calm natural pools at low tide, which suits families. Exposed beaches can have stronger waves and currents, so swim where locals do and check the tide.
Fly to Porto Seguro and continue by road, which takes roughly an hour. Most pousadas will organise a private transfer, and there are also local buses.
Christmas, New Year and Carnival are the busiest weeks, when rooms sell out early and restaurants fill up. Outside those dates the village is much calmer.