Hvar is a long, narrow island off the Dalmatian coast, scented with lavender and rosemary and fringed by clear, deep-blue water. Venice ruled it for centuries and left stone harbours, loggias and fortifications, while the ancient Greeks had laid out its farmland long before that. It is one of the sunniest places in Croatia, so the swimming season runs from late spring well into October. Hvar Town takes most of the attention, yet the island is nearly 70 kilometres from end to end, and quiet corners are never far away.
Where you sleep shapes the holiday more here than on most islands. Hvar Town is elegant and busy, with a lively harbour front and plenty of late-night bars in high summer. Stari Grad, at the end of a long sheltered bay, is where the car ferries from Split arrive, and it feels more like a working town with an ancient past. Jelsa and Vrboska are gentler bases on the north coast, while villages in the hills and on the south coast suit anyone after vineyards, walking and silence.
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The fortress on the hill above Hvar Town is reached by a stepped path that climbs through pines and agave. From the walls you look down over terracotta roofs, the harbour and the scatter of the Pakleni Islands, which makes late afternoon the best time to go. It was part of the defences of the town's Venetian naval base.
The cathedral stands on Hvar's broad main square, one of the largest in Dalmatia, with its Renaissance bell tower rising over the stone paving. The square is the town's living room, lined with cafés and the old Arsenal, and it is at its calmest early in the morning.
Above the old Arsenal on the main square, the theatre opened in 1612 and is counted among the oldest surviving theatres in Europe. A visit is a short, atmospheric stop that shows how important the town was in Venetian times, and the building is still used for performances.
A chain of wooded islets about ten kilometres long lies just off Hvar Town and is reached by water taxi or excursion boat. The coves have pebbles, rock slabs and shallow turquoise water, and a few of the islands have simple restaurants. The name comes from paklina, the pine resin once collected here to seal wooden ships.

This patchwork of vineyards, olive groves and dry-stone walls was laid out by Greek settlers in the 4th century BC and is still farmed today. It is the largest farmland of its kind on any Adriatic island and joined the UNESCO World Heritage list in 2008. The ground is flat, so it suits slow cycling and walking along the straight lanes.

In Stari Grad, this fortified Renaissance house was the summer residence of the poet Petar Hektorović, who strengthened it as a refuge for local people during Ottoman raids. The courtyard holds a long sea-water fish pool, a dovecote and a walled garden, and inscriptions are set into the walls.

This prehistoric cave near the hamlet of Humac, high in the hills, has given archaeologists pottery from several Stone Age and Bronze Age cultures, including one named after the island. It is a good excuse for a drive into the quiet interior, where old stone shepherds' huts stand among the lavender.
The island's social centre, with the harbour, restaurants and bars all within walking distance. It suits couples and groups of friends who want to step out for dinner and a late drink, though rooms fill early in July and August and nights can be loud near the waterfront.
Pretty old streets around a sheltered bay, and the arrival point for the car ferries from Split. It suits families, cyclists and anyone exploring by car, with walking and cycling routes leading straight into the Stari Grad Plain.
A small harbour town on the north coast with a pine-fringed promenade and pebble beaches close by. It suits families and relaxed beach holidays, with a gentler pace than Hvar Town.
A tiny fishing harbour in a narrow, pine-fringed bay between Stari Grad and Jelsa, centred on a fortified church. It suits people who want quiet evenings and short walks, with livelier towns a short drive or bus ride away.
May to September is the main season, and August is the busiest and hottest, with ferries and harbour restaurants at their fullest. June and September are the sweet spot: the sea is warm, the island is lively but not crowded, and daytime heat is easier to handle. Lavender flowers around June and July, giving the interior roads a purple haze and a sweet smell. Spring and October are good for walking and cycling, but some seasonal restaurants and boat trips close and ferry timetables thin out.
Buses link the main towns and meet the car ferries at Stari Grad, but timetables change with the season and thin out in winter. Hiring a car or scooter for a day makes it easy to reach villages and beaches, although the roads are steep and winding, so take real care on a scooter. In Hvar Town everything is on foot, and water taxis run to the Pakleni Islands from the harbour. Fast catamarans from Split call at Hvar Town, while the car ferries use Stari Grad.
Dalmatian cooking leans on fresh fish, olive oil and garden vegetables. Look for gregada, a fish stew with potatoes, and for grilled squid or sea bream served with blitva, the local chard and potato side dish. Hvar is also known for lavender honey, olive oil and rosemary, and for red wine from Plavac Mali grapes grown on the steep southern slopes. Many family-run konobas, as simple taverns are called, serve peka, meat or octopus slow-cooked under an iron bell, if you order a few hours ahead. Try prošek, a sweet dessert wine, to finish.
Hvar Town is best for nightlife, restaurants and boat trips, while Stari Grad and Jelsa suit families and quieter holidays. If you plan to explore by car, any of the three works well as a base.
In July and August it is very lively, and bars near the harbour can stay open late. If you want sleep, choose a room a few streets back from the waterfront or stay in a village outside town.
You can manage in Hvar Town and Stari Grad without one, using buses and water taxis. A car or scooter gives you access to remote beaches and hill villages, but the roads are steep and narrow.
Car ferries run from Split to Stari Grad, and faster passenger catamarans go from Split to Hvar Town. A further car ferry crosses from Drvenik on the mainland to Sućuraj at the eastern tip of the island.
Most are pebble, shingle or smooth rock slabs, so water shoes are useful. The coves around the Pakleni Islands and on the quieter south coast are among the most pleasant places to swim.